This post will be on a more solemn note, considering this will contain details about one of the most horrific events in history. As you are probably aware, one of the most brutal and quickest genocides in history took place in Rwanda in 1994. Roughly one million Rwandan Tutsis and moderate Hutus were slaughtered in the short time-span of 100 days. Rwanda had been steeped in tribal/ethnic tension and violence since its colonization days. When Belgium overtook the country in the early 1900s, they put the minority Tutsi tribe in power, seeing them as more superior, in addition to implementing an identification system between the two tribes. The resentment of the Hutu tribe continued to build and they overthrew the Tutsi government when Belgium pulled out in the 1960s. The years leading up to the genocide were filled with political tension, civil war, and massacres of the Tutsis; the Hutus viewed the Tutsis as inyenzi, a Kinyarwanda word meaning "cockroach," and were determined to eliminate them. In April 1994, the Hutu president's plane was shot down and even though to this day no one knows the responsible party, the Tutsis were blamed and the killing spree began. Hutus went door-to-door torturing, mutilating, and killing every Tutsi, and any Hutus helping Tutsis, with machetes, clubs, axes, and guns. No mercy was shown to any Tutsi, not to even children, women, or the elderly. Neighbors killed neighbors, co-workers killed co-workers, family killed family, and even pastors helped to kill members in their own congregations. Hundreds of thousands of women were raped during the genocide, which resulted in the AIDS/HIV epidemic in Rwanda. The brutality of the genocide is unfathomable; I was told numerous stories that I won't even dare post here. The genocide ended three months later in July 1994 after the Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF), a force containing Tutsi refugees and moderate Hutus, captured the capital, Kigali.
The genocide broke the country to pieces and it is continuing to rebuild itself. Though far from restored, God has brought this country a long long way since 1994. There is forgiveness, there is reconciliation, there is healing. Neighbors are forgiving neighbors and friends are reconciling with friends though it was these same neighbors and friends who murdered their families. By God's great hand and healing Rwandans are beginning to live together again. Many of the genocide killers and perpetrators are being tried, convicted, and imprisoned. And things are looking up for the education systems and economy.
Yet there is still healing to be done. I visited two genocide memorials while I was there; one in Kigali and one in a town called Nyamata. The memorial in Kigali is what I call the words of the genocide and is around the same caliber of impact as the Holocaust memorial in DC. The outside portion of this memorial had some gardens, three mass graves, and a memorial wall similar to that of the Vietnam memorial wall.
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Window looking down and in to one of the mass graves |
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Memorial wall |
The mass graves were roughly half a football field long, 15 feet wide, and 10-15 feet deep into the ground. They were each filled with coffins and each coffin could hold the remains of up to ten people. Remains are still being found in the land surrounding the memorial, so mass graves are still being built and filled. The memorial wall lists the names of the
known victims in
just the Kigali area, so it doesn't include the unknown or those in neighboring towns. The first thing I noticed when I looked at the list of names was the common occurrence of eight, nine, or ten people having the same last name---entire families were slaughtered and wiped out. The inside portion of this memorial was mostly about the history of the genocide, so it included colonization days, the events leading up to the genocide, the political background, the events of the genocide itself, and the aftermath of the genocide. The brutality of the genocide became real to me at this memorial when I walked through the hall that was dedicated to the kids that were killed during the genocide. As I saw pictures of individual kids and a summary of their name, their age, their favorite food, their favorite animal...then how they died. 15 month-old smashed against a wall, two year-old macheted in his mother's arms, five year-old stabbed in the eyes and head. These were
kids and they were shown no mercy. I began wondering how man could be so evil as to kill
kids; I was actually quite enraged by it. The other memorial wasn't any less sobering. This memorial in Nyamata is what I call the picture of the genocide and the impact it has is indescribable. This memorial is a preserved location of a mass slaughter of the genocide...it's a church where approximately 10,000 people were killed. In previous times of massacres, Tutsis fled to churches because it was seen and kept as a place of safety and refuge and as a result, people fled to this church during the genocide. All rules, respects, and formalities were tossed out the window during the genocide, so the killers marched right up and started killing at first with just machetes, axes, and clubs. Then government militia came in with guns and explosives and they locked the door to the church and started throwing grenades and bombs at the thousands that were trapped inside the church. The site itself is still standing and you can actually walk through the church where this mass slaughter occurred. Obviously it has been cleaned up and corpses removed (though it was up until recently that piles of bones and remains were left in the church), but you can still see the bullet holes, shrapnel marks, and blood stains. The clothes of the victims are stacked all over the church; you can kind of picture what 10,000 people actually look like. The remains are in mass graves outside of the church and the caskets in these mass graves can hold the remains of up to thirty people. You can go down into one of the mass graves, which resembles a cellar, and on display are shelves and shelves and shelves of skulls and bones. This memorial shook me more than I anticipated and for reasons I won't get into here, I will probably never go back. I've seen it once and I don't need to see it again.
A couple thoughts about all of this. I think that someone in my shoes wanting to serve long-term in Rwanda, especially, ought to visit a memorial like Nyamata. Part of living among a different culture and people requires learning about them and in this case the genocide is a huge part of these people and their past. I personally don't think any amount of googling or reading could match the experience of seeing the aftermath and hearing stories from Rwandans themselves. While we will NEVER fully understand the impact of the genocide and what atrocities happened during that time, we should attempt to understand part of the genocide and its impact. Which leads me to another thought: we will NEVER fully understand the genocide, its effects, and its involvement with everyday life, which can be a tough one to swallow. I saw an aspect of my American ignorance by realizing how I had once assumed that the genocide was a horrific event that happened in the past, but that it was just an event that everyone has come to move on from or let drift from mind. How very wrong I was; the genocide affected
everyone and it is a very real part of their everyday lives. While I desire to minister to these people, there is a part of them I'll never understand regardless of how much I want to. From my psychology background and the lack of it in Rwanda, I can't help but wonder about the post-traumatic stress these people must go through and how people can actually live on day in and day out, especially if someone is a survivor of genocide attacks. There is no amount of human counseling or help that could ever heal the holes, hurt, and pain that the genocide left. I realized that the future of this country has to depend on God's healing and any hope of restoration has to be found in Jesus. This actually helps to counter the temptation to believe that I, the Westerner, hold the answer and it humbles me to ask, "what can I honestly bring to this place and to these people?" I wrestled with this question during a team debrief one night and was encouraged by the statement: "One child at a time." The future of Rwanda and its healing and restoration depend on God's work through the upcoming generations, which is why it's absolutely crucial to invest in the children of Rwanda. By teaching them, by God's grace and help, the things that I have taken for granted here in the US they become enabled to become godly leaders and citizens of Rwanda who are lights in Rwanda's darkness and lights in this world. The potential that Rwanda has to glorify God is astounding; imagine how much glory He could receive through this country forgiving, healing, and reconciling after such a devastating history! Not only is Rwanda literally a city on a hill (known as the Land of a Thousand Hills), but this little Maryland-sized country smack-dab in the middle of Africa has the potential to be God's city on a hill illuminating His light in such a dark and fallen world. This is why when I think of Rwanda, the phrase "ibyi rin giro" comes to mind, which is translated "hope in the midst of distress." There is hope for healing in Rwanda and God will not relent!